Victorian jewellery
Jewelry has fascinated mankind or more specifically, womankind for ages. Since humans have evolved, the need for decorating ourselves and to enhance our appearance has been the chief need after food, clothing and shelter. Over the years, different styles and types of jewelry have evolved, been used and have been either forgotten or have become antique and outdated. Different materials have been used for making jewelry in different times and different places according to the prevalent culture and the availability of appropriate materials. No matter how the jewelry is fashioned, it is a good idea to keep in mind that the chief purpose of wearing jewelry is to decorate the person. Other reasons are to show off wealth and good (or bad) taste, fashion and attraction.
The British jewelry in general were pretty ostentatious and borrowed freely from Indian, Egyptian, French, Italian, Grecian, Scottish and Japanese styles. The royalty in Britain was responsible for setting the styles, which influenced the aristocracy. The masses and the nouveau riche, in turn, copied these styles. The Victorian jewelry can be classified into three parts: The Romantic Period, the Grand Period and the Late Victorian Period. During this time, jewelry fashions were set by Queen Victoria.
The Victorian Period lasted from 1837 to 1901 and saw many varied and exquisite as well as expensive pieces of jewelry. It is a good idea to study the jewelry fashions separately of the three periods of the Victoria Era since they are markedly different.
The Romantic Period
The Romantic Period lasted from 1837, when Victoria was crowned as Queen till 1860. The fact that the queen was young and happily married influenced the styles and fashions of the day. Though gold was used a lot, it was puffed up and was light in weight in order to get the maximum of look from a scarce and expensive metal. Most gold jewelry was adorned with complex engravings and carvings, subtle enamel work, die rolling and twisting designs. Pink coral, pearls and turquoise beads in natural and flower motifs were common embellishments to the jewelry pieces. Amethyst, aquamarine, blue zircon, citrine, emerald, garnet, peridot, ruby and sapphire are among the other stones used during this period. Apart from these precious stones, the use of tortoise shell, bog oak, ivory and lava was also popular among other things.
The Victorians enjoyed playing with hidden messages in their jewelry. Symbolism was given plenty of importance and birds, love knots, clasped hands, serpents and flowers were fairly common. A very interesting way of communicating your sentiments through stones was prevalent during Victorian times. Jewelry, usually bracelets were set in different stones and spelled a sentiment. For instance, a bracelet set with Lapis, Opal, Vermeil and Emerald was given as a gift to express LOVE.
The Grand Period
The death of the Prince Consort in 1861 dumped the queen and the rest of England into mourning and spelled the end of the Romantic Period and the beginning of the Grand Period. A period of mourning extending over twenty-seven years influenced the jewelry fashions of the time deeply. Jewelry ceased to be glittering and gay and became somber and sober. Dark stones carried the day and whitby jet, onyx and garnets became de rigueur. These stones were most frequently complemented with gold jewelry and black enamel tracing. Silver also became popular during this period and gold was found in America and Australia.
During this period of the Victorian Era, designs were taken from Italy, France and Greece. Granulation, an Etruscan art, was taken up by Castellani and became instantly popular. Enameled jewelry created by Giuliano was also prominent. The opening of the Suez Canal and the commencement of relations with Japan led to the copying of Egyptian and Japanese styles rather freely.
Intaglio crystals, painted on the back, depicted horses, foxes, dogs, pheasants and other motifs related to sport and hunting. Stylized palmettes, lotus flowers, scarabs and ropelike borders signified the Egyptian influence whereas the Japanese influence was shown in the fans, flowers, weeds, dragons and insects motifs.
The Late Victorian or Aesthetic PeriodThe queen came out of mourning in 1889, which marked the end of the Grand Period. The Aesthetic Period lasted until the death of Victoria in 1901. This period saw the fantasy and whimsy in jewelry after the staidness and strict propriety of the Grand Period. Jewels studded with diamonds became very popular.
Griffins, dragons, crescents, stars, flowers and butterflies were fashionable and diamonds, corals, pearls, turquoise and sapphires were most commonly used. Silver jewelry with circus themes, sporting themes and hunting themes as well as boats and insects set the trend during this time.
Extraordinary Victorian JewelryHair jewelry, cameos, sentimental lockets, stickpins and watch fobs are some of the jewelry that are no longer used today but were of utmost significance and fashion during the Victorian reign. Hair of a female would be braided and fashioned into jewelry pieces and locks of hair would be enclosed in the compartment of a locket. Hair jewelry was used for mourning or sentiments. Sentimental lockets were also common. People kept small miniature photos or hair of their loved ones within these lockets.
Victorian jewelry on the whole is an excellent depiction of British jewelry. Though some of the styles may be outdated and certain designs might seem overly ostentatious, it cannot be denied that the value of these pieces of jewelry will only rise. The Victorian Era has definitely left its stamp on the jewelry styles.
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